The generals haven't made it easy for tourists. Charges of human rights violations have been louder than calls for engagement from those outside the country.

Last month, the International Red Cross broke its usual diplomatic silence, denouncing the government for abuses committed against civilians and detainees.

What goes on in the Union of Myanmar remains a mystery. The UN's envoy to the country Razali Ismail quit in 2006 when denied entry into the country for two years. ASEAN, which rallied around the admission of Myanmar into the grouping in the face of international pressure, no longer knows how best to engage the country.

Despite talk of an eventual move toward democracy, the military shows no signs of releasing its grip on power. The EU and the U.S. have maintained sanctions on Myanmar for almost 20 years, in an attempt to punish the military. Sadly, its the citizens that suffer in what is one of Southeast Asia's richest nations given its vast natural resources, such as gas and teak.

The EU has a ban on arms exports to the country and holds a limited ban on investments. The U.S. has a tougher line -- all new investment has been banned.

For tourists, the debate has centered around one question: To visit, or not? I strongly urge you to go. You'll probably not find a single person on the street in Yangon who would advise you against it. Give them a chance to speak and interact with the outside world; the generals won't.

Alan Soon
July 2007

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N.B.: This gallery carried 80 photos when launched on July 22, 2007. Under the advice of fellow photographers, it has since been edited down in an attempt to create a stronger set of photos.